The Flight of the Macaw

The Flight of the Macaw

by Derrick Bruno

https://HalfEvil333.com

The Flight of the Macaw was one of my greatest pictures as an artist. I not only completed this piece in a good time-frame but I used over 40+ colored pencils. Composing this image was no easy feat at all either. The reference shot I had was small and blurry, but the pose fit what I was going for. I used other references such as encyclopedias, and zoology books to get the bone structure, and muscle movements down. In this blog I will be giving you a day by day play into the creation of this piece. 

Prints are available at https://www.halfevil333.com/art

DAY ONE

And the macaw spreads his wings. There is something releasing about sketching the picture on the paper. It can be difficult to start a new project sometimes, and I know once I start to draw the piece I know it's on. I found a good composition in this image that followed a line of action. It gives the illusion of the birds movement, and flight path which is right off the page. I started to color the head and saw the clock, time for a break. 

DAY TWO

I really jumped right into this piece. I felt an immediate connection, and after the success with the Bird in Bloom piece I really wanted to improve more. I used about 4-5 pencils to get a good bone color in the beak. I started to work on the creases and noticed that after I colored in the eye, I felt him staring right at me with almost a grin. Although the camera I used picked up more white than it should have, you can still see the layers of colors I started to put in. I wanted to give this bird a bit of my personality, and you can see that with the yellow to red flame coloring I put in his feathers. 

DAY THREE

Something happened today that was a bit unexpected for me. I found detail that was not in the reference picture. My dad in Costa Rica took a far away shot of this bird in flight and it was very blurry. You could say that I winged it...pun. Seriously though I stopped looking at the photo at this point and just colored. I saw the form of this beautiful bird and knew where I wanted the muscles to flex, and even more I wanted to feathers to fluff out as if he had just flapped his wings, and you get that hint of back-draft. I also went right into the shading too. I don't usually do this until I shaded all the base colors, but like I said something just came over me today, and I was on fire looking forward to tomorrow. 

DAY FOUR

Back to what I was talking about in day three. The muscle definition. I think that was my primary focus on this piece. Not only did I want to see how many colors I could put in it, but I wanted to see how many feathers I could ruffle, and muscles I could flex. The one small challenge I found was the molted white feathers on the legs and by the wings. With colored pencils you cannot just color white over red and expect white. So I had to color around these areas using negative space, and then using small strokes to add the detail of them being white feathers. I did this with grays and browns. After adding some lights and shadows to this point I think I was done for the day. 

DAY FIVE

Today the macaw started to fly. Can I admit one thing, I actually go so nervous before I started the wings that I took a day or two away from this piece. after I put so much detail into the body I couldn't mess up on the wings. That would be the end of it. So I started on the feet. Believe it or not the feet were harder than the wings. I had to get a movement that made sense as well as give them some texture. The color was interesting to, I would say between the blues, grays and tan colors there were about 7-9 colors in the feet alone. That's why I love colored pencils. Just by adding one more color in a different direction or stroke you change the look and feel of what you are coloring. It may take longer, but you have total control. As for the wings I think the most difficult part was the angle of the feathers and showing the wind pushing down on the top feathers, and lifting the bottom. to do that I added a curve at the end of each feather, and moved them as I visualized the bird in motion. You have to do this, create a line of action and engage the audience. You have one image to capture their imagination, by drawing them into yours. 

DAY SIX

Ah the right wing. This wing was killer. I almost made the mistake of thinking the macaw's feathers were blue on the top and bottom. After looking it over I found they were just a darker color of red. The feathers are actually layered, and their blue feathers are on top. That being said I really thought I would have more blue in this picture, but If I am going to make it believable you have to do your research, even if you are making it your own. Now if you are drawing directly from your imagination, which I love, then all bets are off. This is the funny part I made sure that I placed the blue on the second wing anyways. I changed to composition to have this wing come off the border. It solved two problems for me, One I needed the wings to match up in color, and Two this was a perfect line of action that made this draw much more interesting. Now I was ready to move forward. 

DAY SEVEN

This is the phase where most of artists start to crash. The final lap of the finish line, and you fear finishing. Part of you wants to push harder just to end it, and the other halve just wants to put it away and never finish it because you fear the success or failure of possible messing up. This is where you have to be cautious and take breaks. For me I told myself I would just do the log for the day, and as hard as that was I did it. I added the shadows, and different colors of browns to get the color I wanted. A voice poked in to my head saying just color in the shrubs and be done with it, I know that would have been a big mistake. I was tired, and my wrist was hurting, and I know I would have skipped details, and just rushed it. So I gave it one more day. I originally attempted to draw this 18" x 24" colored pencil piece in 7 days, but I would rather add one more day and be happy with it, than ruin it but trying to hit a deadline that I placed on myself. 

DAY EIGHT

And with the large brush in the background with the skyline, this piece is finally completed. I think this piece cemented me into a good spot as an artist. What I accomplished fore myself was just priceless when I finished this macaw piece. I used over forty colored pencils, and I did it in eight days. It was a good feeling to know I did that, and I wanted to do it again. I continued making new portfolio pieces here on out, and rebuilding everything. If you think about it The Flight of the Macaw was me. I was spreading my wings and letting the wind take me. All the way trough I animated him in my head watching him move, and I think that made the picture take form and move with me. 

Thank you very much for following me on this piece, and remember prints are available at https://www.halfevil333.com/art

I am Ready to Get Started….In Just a Bit.

One of the most difficult things I have trouble with as an artist is just getting started. To me it’s something that drags me down like quicksand. The struggle of pulling myself together is a fight I deal with daily, and the more I fight to get started I find myself procrastinating more. In my case I feel as if I start one project I am neglecting myself of another. As of now I have split my talents into several different locations, that I am completely scatterbrained at times. It’s as if I am stuck in a dark tunnel with ten paths to choose, and rather than take the chance of taking the wrong path I stay in the same spot. Unfortunately choosing the safe spot moves me nowhere and nothing gets done, and every project suffers.

If you are new to my blog, or website my name is Derrick Rathgeber, and I am a husband, father of four great kids, a colored pencil artist, comic strip writer/artist, blog writer, free online art teacher, web designer, graphic designer, and soon I will try my hand at writing a book. All that is true I have done all those things, and you can find them on my website and right here on this very blog page. What the funny part is that I have put my hat in so many pots that I have overwhelmed myself to the point where I don’t know what I want to do. Each of these things are my hobbies, and I really do enjoy them all equally. I love making people laugh with my comic strips, I love designing characters for my story, and I love drawing detailed pictures with my colored pencils. So how do I choose? When I finish one project, how do I choose what to do next? When I start one I put all my energy into it, energy that I could have put into another one.

This was a problem for me for a very long time. I tried different things, and ultimately what worked best was just being down right organized. First of all my greatest enemy is procrastination. That to this day is the hardest enemy to kick in the rear, but you know what I am learning. I’ll start tomorrow, I never do anything for myself, I am tired, I don’t have what I need and so on. Some great tips to help with this little demon are as follows.

1.  Ask yourself: Is what I am doing now beneficial? What would be more rewarding? How will I feel if I continue to put this off?
2. Put off Procrastination: It may sound funny but think about it. Turn off any devices that may lure you away from your projects ie. Tv, internet, PHONE! All these things will be there later.
3. Reward yourself: I always tell myself if I draw today for x amount of time then I get to have x amount of time to do something I like GUILT FREE.
4.  Break it down: Sometimes we are overwhelmed by a large project. So overwhelmed that we don’t start it. So break it down. Say I am going to sketch it today, color this section tomorrow ect. This also helps you take your time and enjoy your new project.
5. Share your Success: Let people know how important it is to you. Sometimes we feel guilty for taking time from our friends and family. Sometimes they don’t understand what it means for you to be productive. Let them know, and ask for support. Say don’t call around 2-4pm I will be working, or can you watch the kids for a bit. And once you are finished working thank them by giving them your full attention. 

When it comes to deciding on what to work on next that is another hang up us artists deal with. Do we start on that commission piece? Do we draw that picture your mom has been asking for? Do I dare ignore everyone and draw that image bouncing around in my head? Again it answers the question how do I spend my time and energy? In my case I pulled myself so thin at one point that I just fell apart and did nothing. I had to get focused, and combat this problem because I wasn’t getting anything done. So what I did was I got organized. This was very important for me because I was all over the place. I didn’t even know what projects I had half of the time, or what I finished. So these are some of the things I did, that you can do yourself, to get organized.

1. Make a list: Write down a list of projects you have. This can be commissions, drawings you would like to do, blogs, website, ect.
2. Prioritize them: Number these projects from 1-10+ based on which projects you would like to get done, or maybe ones you were putting off that you would like to finish.
3. Make a Time Table: Next to each item write down how much time you need for each project. If it’s unknown it’s not a big problem. Ones that you can finish fast are good ones to knock off in-between larger projects.
4. Make a calendar: This is actually fun. Make yourself a weekly calendar giving yourself that day to work on a specific project, and be sure to add a FREE DAY on this calendar to give you the opportunity to work on projects that are behind, to work on whatever you want,  or just take a day off to rest.
5. Don’t make it Law: If you have to make adjustments it’s okay. Life changes and so can your schedule. So don’t feel guilt about changing the calendar, or missing a day or two. It’s mainly a tool to help you decide on what to work on that day. If your heart is in another project follow it and finish that project, you should never force it.

Once you have everything in perspective you will find your days going much smoother and a lot of guilt that goes along with starting something new will start to pass. You want to get into a good routine of developing yourself as an artist, but also find yourself being productive. Above all try not to make it work. A reason some of us find it hard to start up something new is fear, and worry. We worry that it won’t come out right, or fear that it has become work instead of enjoying it. When you feel that pressure, and fear building up just sketch. Don’t feel obligated to share it, just grab your sketchbook and just draw. This helps relieve that pressure we all feel to be at our very best all of the time. As artists we are our worst judges, and that can do nothing but hold us back.

So today if you are holding back a great new design that can wait, push through the muddiness and get through. Today it’s harder than ever with the many distractions that we face, but we have to close that world off and dive into our imaginations and pull it out. It’s not an easy fight sometimes, but this world of technology needs more creativity. Just remember every time you start a new project you are making the world that much better and more imaginative. That itself is a great reward, and incentive to start today.

Thank you for reading,

Derrick Bruno

Feel Free to find me on my website at http://HalfEvil333.com

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Anything you can help out with is more than helpful. Thank you for your support. 

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Doubt is a Dangerous Thing

As an artist the worst thing you can face is doubt. Doubt is that nagging fear, or voice in the back of your head that tells you you’re not good enough, or you’ll never reach the level of the other artists on the web. It can come at you in ways that will make you want to quit and burn your artwork. I can honestly say I to this day face doubt strait in the face, and sometimes I do want to quit.

I recently got back into drawing again after a very long hiatus. I had a torn tendon in my drawing wrist that was never allowed to recover properly. When I got injured on the job I was given a brace and set right back to work. Over the years I tried to sketch here and there and my work suffered. My hand would shake, I would drop the pencil, my fingers locked up, and sometimes my wrist felt like it was being torn right off. I couldn’t draw anymore and that sent me into a very angry and dark place. The one thing I thought I was good at was taken from me, and I couldn’t do a thing about it. I doubted that I was ever going to draw again.

One day I found myself digging out my old drawings. I kept a box of my work that survived the rain and the move. I did what I normally would do, and that was pull them out of the box, look at them all and them place them back in the box. To me this was a way of looking back at something I couldn’t get back, and believe me I tried. I would draw out some new drawings, and I was upset that they were out of proportions, and very sketchy. I couldn’t get the look I used to anymore let alone what other artists could do. I think my wife saw me, or heard me because a short time later as a gift she got me a nice sketchbook. She only had one rule that I sketch out whatever comes to my head, and do not share it with anybody, just draw for yourself she said. And I think she was on to something.

Over the next year I did just that. I just started drawing small faces or, weapons, characters and random trees. All short small non detailed drawings, but each one got better. It wasn’t until last year in 2012 that I started rebuilding my portfolio. Something in me snapped and just woke up. I grabbed the largest pice of paper and all the colored pencils I had and created A “Bird in Bloom.” Believe it or not this very large 22×28 piece took me three months to complete, but to me it felt like one of the fasted drawings I have ever done. I was enveloped into getting back to where I used to be as an artist, yet somehow by the end of this piece I was better than I ever was. To put it in perspective the last award I won for a piece of my artwork was in 1999. It was now 2013 and I took this one piece of art and entered it into a show against painters and sculptures. Somehow my RoseArt colored pencil strokes won me Best in Show. This was not a cash prize win, but it was enough to convince me that I was on the right track.

I continued making large pieces and smaller pieces, and I think it wasn’t until the great feedback on the Macaw piece that I found that I may be able to have a career in this. I pushed and shared my work online, and joined various art sites to sell my work. I had high hopes that since I couldn’t work and I wasn’t getting paid by the insurance company that this could be my way of providing. When several months go by and nothing sold DOUBT attacked me again. Every time I would open my email and see all the artists who sold their work, or got a great commission, I would definitely get very envious. Here I am thinking I was good enough to win a juried show, and write lessons for RoseArt; and I cannot even sell one piece of art for my family. It hurt. Sometimes it still does I won’t lie. So Doubt hit again, very hard.

You know what brought me back this time? What keeps me going is all of you. I don’t mean to sound cheesy, but you are at home and you chose to read this. Zillions of things on this internet to laugh at and watch and you choose to read the rantings of a beat up colored pencil artist. I appreciate that. When you message me, or write me to congratulate me, or ask me of all people for advice. It pushes me. When I see you struggle in the same ways that I do, and still succeed. I know doubt is a huge waste of time.
Each of us have a story, and in our stories we have a doubt or fear of succeeding. We cannot let this doubt to come into our artwork, because as an artist you know when you erase too much, or overwork the piece it will be ruined. Take a break and draw something you love in a sketch book that you don’t have to share with the world. Do what you love because you love it, and all that doubt will go away.

I have only one more thing to say and this is the most important piece of advice I can give you.
-When you wishing that you had the ability to draw like that great artist you see posting their masterpieces, somewhere there is an artist looking at your masterpieces wishing they could draw like you. Please support and help each other.

Thank you,
Derrick Rathgeber

How to Draw Glass with Colored Pencils: Erasing to Add Detail

How to Draw Glass with Colored Pencils: 
Erasing to Add Detail
by Derrick Bruno

Http://HalfEvil333.com

Thank you for your Donation & Support!

 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/60869032437032180/

Thank you for visiting. In this lesson I will teach you how to draw a believable glass texture. Our subject will be a light bulb so we will be using grey colors for this lesson. You’ll even have a small bonus lesson for the metal texture at the base of the bulb. What you will be learning today is how to use your pencils to color smoothly, and how to take away from your drawing to add more depth and detail. Are you ready to get started?

First off the colors I chose for this lesson are as follows: Grey, Cool Grey, Dark Grey, Black and White.  Also we will be using an eraser. Preferable a white one, or gum eraser.

 Step 1: Using the Dark Grey draw out your light bulb. You can opt out the details in the middle if you like they are not necessary for this lesson. You do however want to get the bulb shape, and screw at the base. This lesson is more about coloring and texture than copying the image.

Hint: Any time you are drawing from a reference a good fun trick to do is draw the image upside down. It sounds funny but it tricks your brain into drawing what you see, and not what your brain knows.

Step 2: Using the Grey colored pencil you will fill in the lower area of the bulb using medium pressure. Once completed take your pencil and hold it at a slant so the point is flat against the paper. Lightly begin to shade in the rounded bulb area using rounded strokes back and forth. This will give you a smoother fill. Continue to crosshatch and fill in the top of the bulb, and the base of the bulb until you get a good smooth cover.

Hint: Practice, and do not rush. Remember you’re not in a race, and you won’t get a prize for finishing first. This is a technique that you are trying to learn. Take scratch paper and use the side of your pencil lead to make strokes of different lengths, and pressures.

Step 3: Here is where it gets fun. Find a good size eraser, preferably a gum eraser, or white art eraser. Now you can look at a light bulb for reference or visualize where you will see the shines. You can also use mine for reference. Start erasing away where you want to have the shines. Be sure to follow the shape of the bulb, and do not be afraid to erase the details of the center, that just gives it more character. This gives the illusion of a rounded shape that you can now view start viewing as glass.

Hint: We used grey in this lesson because our background is white. This is only to make the 2D object appear three dimensional. Now if you have the bulb in front of an object or let’s say a yellow wall, you would color the bulb the same color as the background, or slightly lighter color of the background depending on how thick you want the glass to appear.

Step 4: Now we have to make the glass shine more prominent. You can now use the Dark Grey color and start shading around the shines. We are going to add more pressure at the top of the bulb, the base of the glass, and around the erased shines. Be sure to blend the Dark Grey and Grey together by adding layers of color from dark to light. Also if you added the middle detail you will use the Dark Grey to define the glass on the inside as shown.

Step 5: In this step we are starting on the metal base. Simply use the Dark Grey again and fill in the areas as shown. It’s okay to make these areas dark as we are going to add black to it later. You want to show the light bending around the metal object. And this object is smooth.

Hint: When you draw metal objects be sure to pay attention to your light sources, and remember that light comes from behind too, as seen here.

Step 6: Using the Cool Grey color begin shading the base filling in the left side darker, and leaving the right side lighter. This shows where your light source is and keeps the color flowing across the object. You can even color up and down the screw base to ensure you get the same dark to light scale going from left to right. And remember this metal is also smooth so it’s a great way to practice your small smooth strokes.

Hint:  A good tool to help you blend your pencil drawing is a “Blinding stump.” They are highly affordable, and easy to use. If not you can always use your fingers to smudge the colors together. I did before I know they existed.

Part 7: To add our finishing touches on this piece we are going to just define the light bulb, and highlight the shines. So let’s start off by grabbing the Black pencil. Start by outlining the bulb, and shading in areas of the bulb close to the base and around the top. Take a step back and look at your image and you can see where the shadows are coming from. Those are the areas you want to darken.  Next you will use the Black to also darken the shadows on the metal base to really make the metal shine, and stand out from the glass. You can also add a layer of shading to make it darker from the glass bulb.

Finally we are going to use the White pencil to color over the middle of the glass and shines to really make the center pop. Almost like the light is starting to light up. And to finish the drawing off add white to the right side of the metal base, and around the sides to show where the light is coming from.

I hope you enjoyed this lesson. Please email any comments or suggestions to DerrickBruno@HalfEvil333.com. Find my new portfolio page at http://HalfEvil333.com

Break the Chains That Bind Your Artwork

Breaking boundaries and becoming more creative than you ever thought you could be. That is what today’s blog is all about. I’ll be the first to admit that I changed my entire drawing style to build myself as a professional artist. I honestly felt no one would take me seriously if I kept drawing characters, and creations out of my mind. I tried, I really did. I would post my work online and got nothing back in return. Was this because I wasn’t good enough, or people didn’t like what I had drawn? Now that I look back on it I don’t think so. I think it was because I didn’t believe in myself enough. I held back in a lot of my work and it suffered dramatically. I would spend hours creating a lot of detail in the beginning, and then just tire of the drawing because it wasn’t me. It just didn’t represent me as an artist.

I have felt really chained down as an artist these past few months and as I was looking up a reference shot for my next piece I asked myself why? This picture I am about to draw has already been captured on photograph it’s done. What about all the great pictures in my mind that are trapped in there. I literally had thousands of images screaming to be released onto paper, and I was scared that I would mess them up. There is pressure to create; I always wanted to be original and draw different than everyone else. Even when I would draw from reference I wanted to find a way to change the image, but I really felt bound to make the image look like what I was drawing just because. I know it’s not a good reason but the pressure to be great, and build a portfolio got me thinking I had to make everything believable and real. And then it hit me just the other day why can’t I have the best of both, and make the imagination real and believable.

I found myself with a dilemma. Do I continue to build my portfolio with realistic colored pencil drawings or do I draw for fun. In the end I answered with my gut feeling to do it for me. So my next piece is called Beyond Imagination. At first I started to collect pictures of things I would add to my work I thought to myself that I am doing it again. I was already judging myself, and holding back by using images as a crutch. If I really wanted to release my talent I had to just draw. So in this image I am drawing it from left to right adding all the detail as I go. I started with a dragon, and a witch, and a phoenix. I have no idea what is next, and I don’t care if it makes sense. It’s imagination and fun. I hope you can do the same.

I propose a challenge to everyone. On your next piece, if you want to find out how much you have evolved as an artist, I want you to use everything you have learned to this point and just draw. Lay it all out on the paper. Don’t think about judgment from peers, or from yourself just go. Whatever comes into your mind go for it. The only other rule I ask for is to not use reference shots, photos, or any previous artwork. Make it yours, make it new, and take your time. Sometimes when you hit the professional level you get a following who love your “style.” If so fantastic don’t change. For me although I have gained a lot of praise for my work, it’s time for me to take a step back for a while and brake the chains that bound my imagination. I plan on growing, and releasing all I have to give, I hope you do too. Take the limiters off, and be creative again.

I hope to see some great new creations. Find me on my Facebook page at http://Facebook.com/DerrickRathgeber and share them with me.

Thank you for reading,

Remember to Share, Comment, and Subscribe.

Derrick Rathgeber

http://Derrickr.webs.com

How to Draw Glass with Colored Pencils: Erasing to Add Detail

How to Draw Glass with Colored Pencils: Erasing to Add Detail  

by Derrick Rathgeber

Thank you for visiting. In this lesson I will teach you how to draw a believable glass texture. Our subject will be a light bulb so we will be using grey colors for this lesson. You’ll even have a small bonus lesson for the metal texture at the base of the bulb. What you will be learning today is how to use your pencils to color smoothly, and how to take away from your drawing to add more depth and detail. Are you ready to get started?

First off the colors I chose for this lesson are as follows: Grey, Cool Grey, Dark Grey, Black and White.  Also we will be using an eraser. Preferable a white one, or gum eraser.

 Step 1: Using the Dark Grey draw out your light bulb. You can opt out the details in the middle if you like they are not necessary for this lesson. You do however want to get the bulb shape, and screw at the base. This lesson is more about coloring and texture than copying the image.

Hint: Any time you are drawing from a reference a good fun trick to do is draw the image upside down. It sounds funny but it tricks your brain into drawing what you see, and not what your brain knows.

Step 2: Using the Grey colored pencil you will fill in the lower area of the bulb using medium pressure. Once completed take your pencil and hold it at a slant so the point is flat against the paper. Lightly begin to shade in the rounded bulb area using rounded strokes back and forth. This will give you a smoother fill. Continue to crosshatch and fill in the top of the bulb, and the base of the bulb until you get a good smooth cover.

Hint: Practice, and do not rush. Remember you’re not in a race, and you won’t get a prize for finishing first. This is a technique that you are trying to learn. Take scratch paper and use the side of your pencil lead to make strokes of different lengths, and pressures.

Step 3: Here is where it gets fun. Find a good size eraser, preferably a gum eraser, or white art eraser. Now you can look at a light bulb for reference or visualize where you will see the shines. You can also use mine for reference. Start erasing away where you want to have the shines. Be sure to follow the shape of the bulb, and do not be afraid to erase the details of the center, that just gives it more character. This gives the illusion of a rounded shape that you can now view start viewing as glass.

Hint: We used grey in this lesson because our background is white. This is only to make the 2D object appear three dimensional. Now if you have the bulb in front of an object or let’s say a yellow wall, you would color the bulb the same color as the background, or slightly lighter color of the background depending on how thick you want the glass to appear.

Step 4: Now we have to make the glass shine more prominent. You can now use the Dark Grey color and start shading around the shines. We are going to add more pressure at the top of the bulb, the base of the glass, and around the erased shines. Be sure to blend the Dark Grey and Grey together by adding layers of color from dark to light. Also if you added the middle detail you will use the Dark Grey to define the glass on the inside as shown.

Step 5: In this step we are starting on the metal base. Simply use the Dark Grey again and fill in the areas as shown. It’s okay to make these areas dark as we are going to add black to it later. You want to show the light bending around the metal object. And this object is smooth.

Hint: When you draw metal objects be sure to pay attention to your light sources, and remember that light comes from behind too, as seen here.

Step 6: Using the Cool Grey color begin shading the base filling in the left side darker, and leaving the right side lighter. This shows where your light source is and keeps the color flowing across the object. You can even color up and down the screw base to ensure you get the same dark to light scale going from left to right. And remember this metal is also smooth so it’s a great way to practice your small smooth strokes.

Hint:  A good tool to help you blend your pencil drawing is a “Blinding stump.” They are highly affordable, and easy to use. If not you can always use your fingers to smudge the colors together. I did before I know they existed.

Part 7: To add our finishing touches on this piece we are going to just define the light bulb, and highlight the shines. So let’s start off by grabbing the Black pencil. Start by outlining the bulb, and shading in areas of the bulb close to the base and around the top. Take a step back and look at your image and you can see where the shadows are coming from. Those are the areas you want to darken.  Next you will use the Black to also darken the shadows on the metal base to really make the metal shine, and stand out from the glass. You can also add a layer of shading to make it darker from the glass bulb.

Finally we are going to use the White pencil to color over the middle of the glass and shines to really make the center pop. Almost like the light is starting to light up. And to finish the drawing off add white to the right side of the metal base, and around the sides to show where the light is coming from.

I hope you enjoyed this lesson. Please email any comments or suggestions to DerricktheArtist@Live.com. Find my new portfolio page at http://Derricktheartist.com. 

I would like to see your work. In fact if you share your results here on my Art Facebook page - HERE -, I will randomly select someone to give the original signed copy to. FREE of charge. I hope to see some of your work. (Feel free to add to it if you have any "bright ideas." 

Again thank you for allowing me to share these tips and tricks with you, and if you have something you would like to learn feel free to suggest it to me anytime. Have a great day!

Featured Art - Hraunkot

Featured Art

Hraunkot – 11 x 14 colored pencil piece. A good name for a strong Horse bursting from Lava, and jumping right off of the page. In this colored pencil drawing I wanted to illustrate strength, power, and beauty with the stroke of a pencil. I formed rock texture, and the fire using different techniques, and patience with each part.


Purchase the original and prints at Http://derrickr.artist.cm.

How to Color a Daisy With Colored Pencils

How to Color a Daisy With Colored Pencils

By Derrick Rathgeber

Welcome to the next lesson in colored pencil drawing. In the last lesson we learned how to layer different colors to create a solid multi-colored pink lady apple. In this lesson I will teach you how to train your brain to see your drawing as different individual pieces. The perfect way to do this is with the daisy. We will focus more on directional shading and coloring in this lesson, and how to obtain textures using different strokes.

Grab your box of RoseArt Colored Pencils out and grab the following colors; Pale pink, Pink, Cerise, Ruby, Light Brown, Golden Yellow, Grass Green, Black, and White. These will be the 9 colors we will be using for this lesson.

Tip: If you would like to change the color of your flower, you may substitute the petal colors (Pale Pink, Pink, Cerise, & Ruby) to another four colors. Just make sure you go from light to dark. For example a purple flower you could use Light Lavender, Lavender, Purple, & Orchid. 

Step 1: Lightly draw your daisy using faint strokes of a pencil, or light grey colored pencil. Start with the circle in the middle of the flower. Follow that with about six individual petals all roughly the same length, but different characteristics. If you note each petal has two fold lines going down the, and the ends are jagged. Behind these petals you will draw more petals. Continue layering your petals until you are satisfied with the shape of your daisy. Now use the Grass Green colored pencil and draw two curved lines for the stem.

Tip: If you would like to skip ahead and focus on the coloring lesson. You may download the sketched out image seen below. Click the link Below. 

http://www.4shared.com/office/lLB4l57E/How-to-draw-a-daisy-001.html

Step 2: We are going to put down the base color for the flower. Take the Pale Pink Colored Pencil and start coloring in each petal. Now to do this we are going to use a fun technique. The reason I chose a daisy is because it’s a circle shape. You will want to color in the direction of each petal; to do this can get frustrating because you have to contort your hand into uncomfortable positions. So what we are going to do is keep our hand in the same position and rotate the paper. Use light gentle strokes across each petal evenly, and use more pressure on the lines, and towards the center of the flower. Continue rotating the paper and coloring each petal until they are covered.

Step 3: Practice Makes Perfect. Find a petal to start with, and start adding the next layer of color. Using the Pink we will start off at the base of the petal and color in the direction of the petal. Color only the base of the petal and the center area of the petal. Again rotate the paper as you go and color in a position that is most comfortable for you and your wrist. This will allow smoother lines and more control.

Tip: Treat each petal as a new drawing. Taking your time and giving attention to each one will allow your brain to see shapes that you would otherwise over look. Remember to draw comfortably, take breaks when you need them, and just have fun.

Step 4: Using the Cerise you will continue adding more color and depth to the flower. We are going to start adding some shadows and curves to the petals. Color from the base of the petal with more pressure and lighten your strokes as you reach the end of the petal. Define the shadows for the petals underneath by using darker strokes where the top petals overlay.

Step 5: We are going to fine tune the shadow by adding one more red color. Using the Ruby Colored Pencil we will once again add more depth the flower petals. Rotating the paper as you go of course, sharpen your lines toward the base of each petal around the circle. Then define the lines of each petal using the Ruby color. Now as you rotate the paper use back and forth strokes to really get the dark Ruby color to make an even shadow on each petal towards the center of the flower to make it look like the petals fold inward.

Step 6: Now we are going to get into the middle of this flower. Don’t worry no more rotating the paper for this one, unless you want to of course. This part is actually kind of fun for me. Making a realistic pollen look is easier than it looks. Using the Light Brown find the center of your circle and make a much smaller circle. This will be your starting point. Now continue making small circles around this circle, and continue until the center is full. Once you get to the edge of the petals, use the Light Brown to fill in any gaps between the flower center and the petals. Now add some of this brown to the stem with some lines dark lines, and we will move on to the next step.

Step 7: Now it’s time to add some color to the center. Using the Golden Yellow make even circular strokes to fill in the center area. Continue going over it until you get a nice even color. Once you are finished use the same Golden Yellow color and very lightly go over the base of each petal. We do this because light reflects colors onto nearby objects. Sometimes it’s not noticeable, but just enough will make your drawing look that much more realistic. Then to finish off this step add some more light stroke lines onto the stem to give it an earthy browning like color when we go over it with the green.

Step 8: Probably the easiest step of the drawing. Take the Grass Green color, and color the entire stem. Be sure to color right over the Golden Yellow and Light Brown colors. Remember to color along with the shape of the stem in the same direction. You can even rotate the paper to give you a comfortable position and clean lines. Color the area by the flower darker show the shadow of the flower covering the stem.

Tip: By now I hope rotating the paper comes to you as a reflex. This will help you draw strait lines and curves, and can be used to draw all sorts of shapes and objects. Draw smarter not harder.

Step 9: Now to cast the final shadows. Use the Black Colored Pencil and outline the base of each petal and the flower center. Next begin shading the top petals lightly just enough to show that they curve inwards towards the center. Add some more black color to the petals underneath using the top petals as a guide. Next tilt the black pencil to the side a bit, and give a shadow to the center of the flower. Use crosshatching strokes towards the bottom of the circle to make it look like a sphere. Finally cast the shadow on the top, and down the side of the stem to finish up the shadows.

Step 10: To finish up our flower take the White Colored Pencil and color the edge of each petal. Next blend together the light and the dark colors by coloring from the edge of the petal down to the middle of each petal. This will even out your colors, and help cast light onto your drawing. Next add white to the cent of your drawing, and to the stem. And there you have it a beautiful flower.

Tip: Find your light source. Sometimes when I draw I will cast a light over my drawing and see which way the paper casts a shadow. Use this as a guide for your shading.

That does it for this lesson. I would love to see your work. Send it to us and we would be glad to share your results on my Facebook page at Http://Facebook.com/DerrickRathgeber.

Be sure to come back here for more lessons, I think I might have us draw a nice reflective shiny vase to put our flowers in. If you would like to ask a question or make a suggestion for a drawing lesson email me at Derrickr333@gmail.com.

Thank you for coming.

Derrick Rathgeber

Visit my website at Http://derrickr.artist.cm

How to Color a Delicious Pink Lady Apple With Colored Pencils

How to Color a Delicious Pink Lady Apple With Colored Pencils

by Derrick Rathgeber

RoseArt Colored Pencils we will be using.

• White

• Golden Yellow

• True Orange

• Bronze Yellow

• Celery

• Cardinal Red

• Cherry Red

• Raspberry

• Brown

• Black

Welcome to the great drawing lessons here on my webpage. Today I will be teaching you how to color your very own delicious pink lady apple. In this exercise I will give you tips on how to over lay colors, blend them to create lights and shadows, as well as textures. So let’s get started shall we.

Step 1: If you are comfortable with your drawing skills start off your picture by drawing the apple shape below with the brown colored pencil. Remember your apple does not have to be a perfect shape because no apple is a perfect sphere.

Tips: A PDF version is available if you would like to skip this step and go right into the coloring.Follow this link to download the image  here:

http://www.4shared.com/office/H4G4z-BY/How_to_Draw_an_Apple_001.html

Step 2: Using the Golden Yellow make dark to light strokes outlining the shine. Start at the base of the stem and define the shape of the apple. This color will act as the base and guide for the rest of the colors to come. Next use the Bronze Yellow and darken the yellow areas on the stem and the area around the stem. This will help blend into the green Celery color in the next step.

Tips: Use more pressure on the pencil at the edges and around the shine areas, then slowly raise the pencil up decreasing the pressure of the pencil.

Step 3: Using the Celery color you will go over the Golden Yellow color on the top of the apple. Start from the base of the stem and create lines in arc shapes to the rim of the apple, then fill them in with the Celery green covering a good area of the top of the apple, but leave some areas not covered with the green for the red to show through. Also add some Celery color to the stem as well.

Step 4: Now it’s time to set the base for rest of the apple. Using the True Orange color we will start from the stem base and color the apple almost like a pumpkin. Fill in the top half of the apple leaving small empty spaces along the edge, and along the base of the bottom. Keep a white strip-like area empty along the right side of the apple, as this will act as a reflective shine making the apple look more realistic.

Tips: References are great. If you have an apple at home shine a light on it to see how light shines and reflects on it so you can replicate this effect in your drawing.

Step 5: It’s time to watch your apple come to life. Use the Cardinal Red and cover the apple in nice even strokes with the apple from top to bottom and at a curve. Remember to leave the large shine in the center, and on the right of the apple clear. I like to rotate the paper so I can keep my hand still and move only the pencil across the paper. Once the apple is covered evenly, begin adding pressure (making darker pencil strokes), and coloring in areas darker near the edges and the top of the apple. Leave the area near the large shine spot lightened as shown in the picture.

Tips: Try to keep your pencil stokes in one direction. In this case arc them downward creating the illusion of a round object. After you have covered the area you can crosshatch to darken areas of the drawing.

Step 6: The candy apple red that makes you drool, that’s what we are going for. So let’s add the next layer of red. This time we are using Cherry Red to help fill in gaps, smoothen out our fruit, and generate a one of a kind look. Starting at the borders of the apple we are going to go over the Cardinal Red with Cherry Red and start coloring towards the shine, lightening our strokes as you reach the shine spot. Also get the top of the apple, and overlay using the Cherry Red partially over the yellows and greens to pull it all together. When you are satisfied with the look of your apple, move on to the next layer of red in the next step. Yep that’s right Three layers of red.

Step 7: This is the last layer of red I promise. Grab the Raspberry Red colored pencil and use heavy pressure along the areas you want to add shadows to. You can use the image as reference or use your gut. Get the areas close to the edges, and highlight the shine on the top near the stem. At this point your apple will have a realistic shine and reflect the paper it is drawn on. As an option also use this color to create a shadow underneath the apple. Remember where your light is coming from and color your shadow based on that. In this case I have light coming from the rear and the front so the shadow is outlined as shown.

Tips: If your drawing doesn’t look like the image shown do not worry. If I were to draw this again mine would look different too. Remember to enjoy yourself and take your time.

Step 8: Time to give your apple an earthy look, and finally give that stem some color. Reach for the Brown and fill in the stem from base to top leaving some green color. Remember to color with the stem shape, and for an extra measure of realism sketch some harder lines. Next add a layer of Brown across the entire apple, and the shadow. Remember to leave the shines white. Adjust your pressure of your coloring pencil to the light or hard coloring pressure that you want. This gives the apple some more texture, and colors to capture the eye.

Tip: If you would like to color the apple with other colors you can use these techniques with most fruit and objects. Simple adjust your color palette, and have fun.

Step 9: We are now heading to the final touch ups. Get a hold of the Black pencil and we will finalize the shadows. Start off by coloring over the shadow on the floor underneath the apple. Once you are finished start darkening the left side using the shines as a guide to where to stop. On the right side of the apple you will start from the white strip and go from heavy pressure to light pressure as you meet in the middle. Then add some dark areas in the stem to show that the apple dips in. Once you are satisfied with your look we will move on to the final step.

Tips: Black is your friend. With colored pencils you can cover other colors without making over shadowing them completely. If you need to go darker simply add another layer.

Step 10: And we are at the finish line! This step is probably one that most people don’t see coming. Go ahead and take the white pencil, and start coloring over the entire apple. You will notice that as you color, the colors will not only lighten up but they will blend together and smoothen out. This is probably one of the greatest kept secrets, and now you know. The white colored pencil is probably the most important pencil in your collection.

Check back here on Http://derrickr.artist.cm for more drawing tips and lessons by Derrick Rathgeber. These lessons are also available on Http://RoseArt.com/Blog. 

If you have any questions or comments I would love to answer them for you. Contact me at derrickr333@gmail.com. 

Thank you for visiting. 

DerrickRathgeber